British journalist Christy Campbell provides a fascinating account of how France's vineyards were destroyed by an invader from America. In the 1860's tiny aphids began attacking the root structure and leaves of grapevines destroying the plants. As the infestation spread throughout the country and to neighboring lands the wine industry was on the verge of total collapse.
Campbell explains the antecedents of this ecological disaster and how, after many false starts, the vineyards of Europe were eventually rejuvenated in such a manner that the tiny invaders were finally checkmated.
Although they often denigrate American wines the fact remains that for over a century all French wine has been made from vines grafted onto American roots. The reason for this is the subject of Campbell's compelling narrative.
Anyone with more than just a passing in wine will find this book not only informative but highly entertaining. Also worth noting is the fact that the threat to the world's vineyards defined by the author has not disappeared.
The mentioning of "le phylloxera" still sends a shudder through vintners from the Rhone Valley and Bordeux to the Napa Valley.
"The Botanist and the Vintner: How Wine Was Saved For the World by Christy Campbell
Paperback ;320 pages
Algonquin Books
ISBN 156512460X
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