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Pinot noir: The noble grape of Burgundy |
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 If you read about Burgundy even a little, you are sure to hear about it being the most exciting, most romantic and sexiest of all wines. You will also hear that the pinot noir, the grape of red Burgundy, is fickle and finicky and is very difficult to coax great wine out of year after year.
Real Burgundy is not a color, but a wine that comes from France, is made of pinot noir, and will say Bourgogne on the label. It is not made by Carlo Rossi and you can’t get it for five bucks a bottle.
The Burgundy region of France contains subregions which produce wines of a somewhat different style even though they are from the same grape.
Cote de Nuits selections tend to be deep, full bodied wines that match up well with lamb and prime rib. The Cote de Beaune style is lighter and often more appropriate with poultry or ham.
Since most of the world’s wine exporting nations are growing varietals that have their roots in France, comparisons are naturally going to be made. Pinot noirs from around the world continue to be held up against Burgundies and judged accordingly.
The good news is, most varietally labeled pinot noir is far less expensive than Burgundy, and more and more of it is very good. The days of pinot being an afterthought are gone, and as growers adjust to its wants and needs in the vineyard, the wine keeps getting better and better.
Many of the more Burgundian style pinots made in the United States come from Oregon, where the cooler climate and long growing season allow the grape to develop its character more fully. Washington state and parts of California are also making noteworthy pinot noir in a wide range of styles.
Unfortunately, the same phenomenon that swept over domestic wineries when merlot became the darling of the American public now threatens the integrity of pinot noir as the rush to make a quick buck is on. The market is already being flooded with hastily produced wines that bear little or no resemblance either to Burgundy or even varietally correct pinot noir.
Of course the consumer is king, so if these wines sell, one can hardly fault the makers, but I fear the good reputation this grape deserves may be tarnished as first-time buyers pick up wines that truly do not reflect what pinot noir is supposed to be. You certainly don’t have to spend $30 a bottle, but you probably need to shell out more than $6 or $8 to get something appreciable.
Next week, I will be reviewing Burgundies and pinots from a variety of countries and regions. These will also reflect a wide range of price points, so there should be something for everyone.
october 2006; The Newyork times
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Posted on Tuesday, November 21 @ 20:00:41 MST by pierre
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